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Best Soil Recipes For Your Marijuana
Cannabis Plants For Awesome
Results
These are 9 or 10 Great Soil Recipes! Most of the these were found on a British
Columbia Growers CO-OP Message
Board & For those of you who have never
had the pleasure of smoking Any of
The BC Bud? It's Just About, If Not,
THE BEST MEDICAL MARIJUANA MEDICINE IN THE WORLD!
Music Provided By "Jason Allen Heath"
Song Title Is "Baked
to the Bone"
Are You In A Band & Have Written A Pot Related
Song That
You Would Like To See Get Some
Massive Expose Here
On OnlinePot? Then Email Us About It, & We Can Give
You The Details You Need To Make It Happen. We Have
Many Major Pages That Your Song Can Be Placed On.
& With The Satellite Radio Filing For Bankruptcy, Very
Soon. The
only place that the bands will be able to get
their
"Drug Content Based Songs" Heard Publicly,
Will Be Here On The Websites!
Any "Green Thumb'ers. Here In The State Of Maine or NH,
Please Set Up A Secure Hushmail.ai
Email Account.
And Please Send me a
"Secure Email" It's Finally That Time To Talk! Sincerely Chris K, Email Me At olpwebs@hush.ai
So I Would Read Up & Use These Marijuana Soil Recipes! Some Name
Brands May Not Be Available Everywhere? So You Might Need To
Substitute
Some Local Name Brands.
The Best Soil! Grows
The Best Medical Marijuana Medicine!
5 parts soil. Normal
commercial potting soil should be fine.
5 parts perlite. This
enhances aeration of the soil-mix, helps prevent over-watering by increasing
drainage and reduces soil compaction. Perlite can be replaced with coarse
vermiculite or crushed expanded clay balls (mica, leca, geolite).
Optional:
2 parts composted organic
matter. This can be normal household compost. If you can find composted worm
castings, seaweed or composted manures (chicken, horse) they can also be
used for extra kick. Non-composted manures make the soil-mix too 'hot' for
the plants and should be avoided.
Original recipe - as it was given to me
1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix
2 L Bone Meal - phosphorus source
1L Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
1/2 - 1 bag chicken manure (steer, mushroom, etc) - nitrogen & trace
elements
- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.
Revised recipe - after several failures due
to bad manure sources, I now use the following recipe. Results have been
excellent and the clones seem to take off right away instead of having a
slow growing settling in period.
1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
4 cups kelp meal.
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings
- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.
Substitutions
- The original recipe was a success, but I simply needed to experiment.
In addition, sometimes not all ingredients were always available.
Therefore, here are some possible additions and/or substitutions.
Descriptions to follow
Blood & Bone Meal - when trying to cut costs
Kelp Meal - contains over 62 trace minerals. Good supplement for
manure or for reducing the manure content to speed up
availability of soil.
Worm castings - excellent source of micro nutrients
Bat guano - excellent for top dressing a week into flowering
Seabird guano
Bugs
On a couple of occasions, I've ended up with fungus gnats with this soil
mix. They are more of an irritation than anything but may harm weak or
young plants. Some have said that putting a layer of sand on top of
the soil in the pots stops the gnats from reproducing. Others can get
rid of them by doing a soil drench with diazinon or malathion.
Personally, I prefer to simply introduce fungus gnat predators (Hypoaspis
miles). Once established, they not only control fungus gnats, but also
thrips and mites. When there is no insect food available, they survive on
dead plant material, so remain even after pests are gone to prevent future
infestations. Actually, since they have been introduced, I've had no
pest problems in over a year and I don't filter my intake. I got
mine from Westgro (1-800-663-2552) and they have sales offices in Delta,
Victoria, and Kelowna.
Update: they did nothing to prevent a mite infestation in summer of '89
and were destroyed in the mite war. They will be re-introduced after mite
war is finally over.
Recycling Soil
Used soil - Reusing soil has a few downsides such as it makes it easier for
diseases, viruses, and pathogens from entering your garden. Also peat
based soils break down and become acidic. If you fertilize with
chemicals you'll end up with salt buildups that will slow growth. Unless
you like to take chances, have a good eye, and a good horticultural
understanding, you may be better off with staying with fresh new soils.
That said;
I grow strictly organic and I've always reused my soil. I don't
sterilize the soil between plantings as my soil is full of microbes and
predatory bugs that keep the bad bugs under control. After each crop, I
chop up the soil and root balls with the leaves, stalks, etc and let compost
for about 3 months. I then mix it up and add about 2 - 3 cups of lime
for every 50 gallons composted soil. I also add about 1/2 cup epsom
salts, 2 liters bone meal, 1 liter blood meal, 1 liter kelp meal, 1 tsp trace
elements, and enough perlite to regain the porosity of the original soil.
I used to add a bag of manure, but I was getting fertilizer burn and so have
stopped now. As I've been fine tuning this, the plants just keep getting
healthier and I haven't had any real pest problems for quite a while.
I know this is a controversial approach and maybe even risky, but it allows
me to keep my garden pretty much self contained. I don't attract
attention by buying bales of soil every 3 - 4 months year around, or in
the disposal of leaves and soil after each crop. It's definitely not for
those who want sterile crops and those that use pesticides and chemical ferts.
I believe in working with nature, not against it.
Update: After several generations, a nutrient
imbalance developed which was only solved by leaching the soil thoroughly. My
hunch is that one of the micro nutrients was building to toxic levels. I guess
farmers don't get this problem because they have the winter rains to leach
excess nutrients from their fields.
Info from Others:
40% composted soil
30% worm castings
20% perlite
10% dolomite, guanos, goodies, etc.. i've also heard good things about
"uncle
malcolm" brand soil from peaceful valley is good....
if you're mixing organics with chem ferts, the plant will use up
what the chem
ferts feed it first, then partaking afterwards in the organic nutes.
the beauty of
organics is it's almost impossible to burn your plants, and the taste
is superior to
chem. grown plants.
i use pure blend 1 - 0.5 -1 for veg and fox farm big bloom 0.8 -
3.0 - 1 for
flowering. they're expensive but the plants really like it. sometimes
i'll make a tea
out of worm castings & guano. peace
9 gallons peat moss
3 gallons vermiculite
6 gallons perlite
1 pound blood meal
1 pound bone meal
1 pond green sand
1 pound lime or dolomite lime
1 pound rock phosphate
Pinch of boron (borax is an inexpensive source)
Blend these ingredients in a small cement mixer or in a
large barrel with a tight fitting lid that will let you
roll it around to mix the contents. If you have to stir the
ingredients in an open container, moisten them
SLIGHTLY with water to avoid breathing in clouds of dust as you
work.
Do not use more than a pinch of boron. It encourages root
growth, but its levels can quickly go from
helpful to harmful in the soil. Once you get the soil all mixed
you can add some manure tea (see recipe
below). The lime in this mix helps to neutralize the acidity of
the manure tea.
Manure Tea
10 to 15 gallons manure (combine horse, chicken, and cow
manure to get a nice balance of nutrients.
5 gallon bucket of chickweed and/or stinging nettles.
Water to fill 55 gallon drum (you'll need a well ventilated
area to pull this off!!)
Dump manure(s) in the bottom of the drum. Add chickweed and/or
nettles, both of which are rich in
trace elements, then fill drum with water.
Once a week stir the "tea" and add water to replace
any that has evaporated. You'll need a brewing time
of at least 3 weeks before using this tea in the potting soil
mix.
add blood meal, steamed bone meal, and rock phosphate at the rate
of 1 cup per cubic foot of
potting soil. I add fine dolomite lime at the rate of about 1 1/2 cups
per cubic foot. I add kelp meal at
about 2/3 cup per cubic foot. I also like to add plenty of coarse
vermiculite. I use plain potting soil to
germinate in and transplant into this mix after about two weeks. Once
transplanted and established, I
only give my plants plain water for the duration of the cropping
period without suffering any nutrient
shortage.
6 parts potting soil
2 parts perlite
1 part vermiculite
1 part chicken manure
1 small handfull lime
that is the basic organic mix. plants are watered daily... every
third watering use fish emulsion 5-1-1
at 1 tbsp. per gallon. continue this until the second week of the
flowering cycle when stretching
stops. then mix fish emulsion 5-1-1 with alaska more bloom 0-10-10 at
a ratio of 1 teaspoon 5-1-1 to
two teaspoons 0-10-10. this will give you a 5-21-21 ratio. use this
every third watering until the last
week and a half of flowering... for the last week and a half use plain
water. right at the beginning of
the flower period (sometimes) add a small amount of lime to your water
for one watering to counter
any acids that may have built up during the vegetative phase. also
sometimes i used to substitute the
5-21-21 mix with chemical 10-60-10 (schultzes super bloom) at 1/2
teaspoon per gallon for two
waterings at about week 4-5 of flowering. if there is any yellowing
before say week 5 1/2 simply use
more 5-1-1 and less 0-10-10. this method resulted in hightimes
centerfold plants.... very vigorous. in
three gallon grow bags NL#5 vege'd for 30 days yield 1 1/2 ozs. of
smooth sweet potent smoke.
some strains did closer to two ounces per plant. 2x250w MH. 1 plant
per 1 1/2 feet sq.
bottom line is you really don't need exotic ingredients to grow
killer weed. i'm sure that wormcastings
etc. will do the trick for you... but don't feel bad if they're not
available in your area... or are beyond
your budget. this simple mostly organic set-up will give you EXCELLENT
results with common,
easily obtained cheap ingredients.
The
cation exchange capacity of the soil
When small quantities of inorganic salts, such as the soluble
mineral matter of soil and commercial fertilizers, are added to water they
dissociate into electrically charged units called ions. The positively
charged ions (cations) such as hydrogen (H+), potassium (K+), calcium (Ca++)
magnesium (Mg++), ammonium (NH4+), iron (Fe++), manganese (Mn++), and zinc
(Zn++) are absorbed mostly on the negatively charged surfaces of the soil
colloids (microscopic clay and humus particles) and exist only in small
quantities in the soil solution. Thus, the humus-clay colloids serve as a
storehouse for certain essential ions (cations). The negatively charged ions
(anions), such as nitrates (N03-) phosphates (HPO4--), sulfates (SO4--), and
chlorides (Cl-), are found almost exclusively in the soil solution and can
therefore be leached away easily with overwatering. The roots and root hairs
are in intimate contact with the soil colloidal surfaces, which are bathed
in the soil solution, and therefore nutrient uptake can take place either
from the soil solution or directly from the colloidal surfaces (cation
exchange). The soil solution is the most important source of nutrients, but
since it is very dilute its nutrients are easily depleted and must be
replenished from soil particles. The solid phase of the soil, acting as a
reservoir of nutrients, slowly releases them into the soil solution by the
solubilization of soil minerals and organics, by the solution of soluble
salts, and by cation exchange. A more dramatic increase in the nutrient
content of the soil solution takes place with the addition of commercial
fertilizers. As plants absorb nutrients (ions) they exchange them for other
ions. For example, for the uptake of one potassium (K+) ion or one ammonium
(NH4+) ion, one hydrogen (H+) ion is released into the soil solution or
directly into the soil colloids by the process of cation exchange.
Similarly, for the uptake of one calcium (Ca++) or one magnesium (Mg++) ion,
two hydrogen (H+) ions are released by the root. Thus, as the plant absorbs
these essential cations, the soil solution and the colloidal particles
contain more and more hydrogen (H+) ions, which explains why the removal of
cations (ammonium (NH4+) nitrogen is a good example) by crops tends to make
soils acidic, i.e., having a low pH. Also, as the plant (absorbs essential
anions such as nitrates (NO3-) and phosphates (HPO4-), the soil solution is
enriched with more and more hydroxyl groups (OH-) and bicarbonates (HCO3-),
which explains why the removal of anions (nitrate (NO3-) nitrogen is a good
example) by crops tends to make soils alkaline, i.e., having a high pH.
*Very simple mix that will blow You away if you strive for optimum flavor in
your
buds. Most Brewery shops have powdered citric acid, then you need the raw,
unprocessed cane sugar(the brown rock sugar that still contains molassis).
Mix 1 dry
ounce of each into 500ml's of warm h2o and mix well. I add 5ml's per gallon
of res.
every res. change. It drops PH considerably the 1st day or 2 then
stabilizes. Citric
acid is a good ph down, but it doesnt last as long as phos. acid. I feed it
to them
always and switch to a clearing solution the last 7-10 days of flower. I
have never
had
buds so tastey and "odoriforous", I'm sold big!
LUMIE I'd be happy to help pay for that bottle of Avid Bro! I'd like some in
the
chamber, locked and loaded, ready for the bastards to show there ugly heads
again.
How's that reefer tea coming? I wonder if breaking it down w/ aerobic bugs
would be
the
best way to extract the goods? My wheels are turning big, Talk w/ ya soon I
hope.
TOPIC - NL, casting ratio
DATE - 04:37:26 5/06/99
FROM - ~shabang~
Hey man, I've gotten the mix down to the height of simplicity.
Put on a good dust mask. Take 1 bag of fine dry castings, 25 pounds.
mix with 1 bag, 8 dry quarts, Scott's perlite
and 1 bag, 8 dry quarts, Scott's vermiculite
add in a liter to a liter and a half of dolomitic or agri lime
and two to three liters of hydrated polymer crystals
Water and plant.
shabang (no more tildes, sorry), i've gradually changed my media too; no
castings in
my
cloning mix, for better nutrient control and lower N levels. i now use a
packaged
"seed starting" mix (gen'ly just milled verm and peat) + perlite,
watering and misting
with a very mild fish emulsion(s)/ molasses/ EJcatalyst/ superthrive
solution.
i still use plenty of castings in my grow/flower pots, but <50%. base of
pro-mix+castings, add organics and minerals. seems like where you've gone
for less
ingredients, i've gone for more. my dry mix has pro-mix, castings, perl
& verm,
pelletized fish, bat guanos, PSG, chicken manure, trace minerals, kelp, etc,
plus the
watered-in component, which includes numerous additional ferts and
supplements
(not using the mycorhizae, though). i've simplified my procedures but gone
toward
"diversity" in my mix. the caveat is, ideally this mix needs time
to activate, though it
works well enough "fresh". castings have the advantage of being
already activated,
which is why i keep them in there...
did
you see my description of the new Alaska product below? no mention of
chlorine
anywhere on the label ;-) plus humic acids from leonardite ore, woohoo. the
kelp is
the
usual ascophylum nodosum.
Re: Home-Made Organic Liquid Recipe?
I add a few ingredients to my soil in a solution that is comparable to EJ
Catalyst.
Two
weeks before transplanting seedlings into larger pots I mix the soil and add
(per gallon of water) 1 tsp Molasses, 1 tsp Lipton Iced tea mix(main
ingredients:
sugar, citric acid), 1 tsp brewers yeast, 1 tsp fulvic acid, 1/4 tsp humic
acid(Gumate), and 1 tbsp liquid seaweed. This concoction will give life to
your
zillions of thriving soil microbes which will help break down your other
soil
amendments and/or watered on guano teas. The nutrients in the teas may not
break down evenly, but that is the beauty of using organics... the plant
uses the
nutes as they are broken down. I would never use Milorganite on anything
other
than ornamental plants, but that is me. I swear by PSG for veg, and Budswel
for
flowering. I use many different guanos but those are the best(IMO)! BTW,
worm
casts don't have that much Nitrogen, at least not enough to use them alone
for a
high metabolism plant like cannabis. For Potassium I use Kelp meal(1-0-2),
liquid
seaweed(0-0-1) and Greensand(0-0-.1) I don't know how much of the greensand
gets broken down by the time the plants are flowering, probably not much,
but I
use
it anyway. Also, the guano's have a bit of P in them also, but not enough to
use
them by themselves, IMO. It seems that different ingredients break down
more rapidly at different PH's, that is why I like to use a bit of peat moss
fortified
with dolomite lime, so that the medium doesn't have an equal ph
throughout... I
think it is varied between 5.8- 7.0 throughout the mix, and becomes a little
more
acidic towards the end of the grow, Phosphorus is more readily available
when the
medium becomes a bit acidic... this is good considering the plant needs the
most
phosphorus when it packs on its flowers at the end of it's life. That's been
my
observation thus far. Any questions or comments are welcome.
Basic
Soilmix:
1
quart perlite (keeps the mix light and helps drainage, does not break down.)
1
quart vermerculite (same as above)
2
quarts wormcastings 1-0-0 (slow release nitrogen, a ton of micronutrients)
1
quart potting soil (regular $2.50 a bag is ok, should be almost black in
color,
smell
like dirt, not rotten. a little sand and verm. or perlite is ok.)
1/4
cup bat guano 10-3-1 (quick release nitrogen and more micros)
1/2
cup horticulture lime or agriculture lime (for PH and also contains calcium)
During flowering, add 1 teaspoon epson salt(magnesium) per gallon of
water.Combined with the pour in ferts posted earlier, this would make an
excellent
mix. ~s uses 1/3 perlite, verm, wormcastings. Keeping it simple. It’s
really up to
you
and what’s available. Don’t freak when you see the low NPK ratios. The
organic ferts have plenty of power. 300 to 400 ppm per watering is max. Any
more
is
overkill.
In addition to the above mix, mine contains:
1/2
cup greensand 0-0-1 (soil conditioner, makes things happen that aid in
nutrient uptake)
1/2
cup alphalfa meal 7-2-5 General purpose organic fert(rabbit food)
1/2
cup horticulture mulch (slightly acidic, breaks down and becomes food)
The breakdown process is criticle to organic growing. There is a whole other
world
under the surface. Microorganisms break down organic matter into the basic
elements. Opinions differ about how long it takes to get the process started
but
IMO
about a month of being watered and breakdown will be in high gear. Using
third
generation soil and its tweekin’. You can and should reuse the soil. Add
more of
the
powder ferts and your back in ‘binness. If your soil is alive with micros
PH will
not
be
a
problem.
Watering: In my grow the plants need water about every third day. I don’t
water
so
much that water comes out of the drain holes. I think its wasteful and
unnessasary.
They get plenty of water though...all they can use.
Misting: Everyday,with 6.0 water. I add 1/4 teaspoon of orange oil to a pint
of
water and the plants love it. The buds get bigger and tighter. Definitely a
worthwhile
procedure. Plain 6.0 water is OK too. Kinda’ dry where I live.(humidity
wise)
It may be a misconception that soil is less hassle than hydro. I guess
it’s what
you
get used to. I know hydro rocks, but organics are Powerful.
Power to grow Gigantic with organics!!!
later,
tim
Re: MrSoul's organic soils & teas
1. My soil mix is (by volume) 50% worm castings, 25% Pro-Mix, and
25% perlite. Simple as that.
2. I feed with tea at EVERY watering of my plants & since
they're flowered in 2-gallon containers - that's usually every
day!
3. The teas I use are made by soaking a "tea bag" (got
mine at Worm's Way) in a 5-gallon bucket of pH = 6.2 water.
Agitate and manipulate the bag a LOT to release as much of the
"goodies" as possible - the water looks like it came from a
mud puddle when you've got it right. I do one thing I've never heard
other growers mention doing - I measure the ppm of
my tea.
Here are the contents of the tea bag, depending on growth stage:
Vegetative => 1/2 cup each of PSG & worm castings. I also
add a 1/2 cup of Maxi-Crop liquid seaweed, plus two
Tablespoons of Alaska fish emulsion to the water.
(I shoot for a ppm = 1000)
Flowering (weeks 0-4)=> 1/2 cup each of PSG & High
Phosphorus bat guano. I also add a 1/2 cup of Maxi-Crop to the
water. (ppm 1250 - 1500 )
Flowering (weeks 4-7)=> 1/2 cup each High Phosphorus bat guano
and worm castings. (shifting ppm from 1500 -> 1000)
During the final week of flowering, many folks choose to use plain,
pH-adjusted water for "clearing" but I don't. I haven't
noticed any difference between when I have & when I haven't
"cleared". This seems reasonable when growing organically -
why clear? Clear WHAT? They're living in the medium in which they've
evolved for millions of years!
A few other hints:
SOAK the pots thoroughly when watering, then allow them to become
"light" when lifted before watering again...the plants
LOVE a short drying out period. The amount of time it takes for the
plants to dry out is constantly getting SHORTER as
they grow...be AWARE!
Water BY HAND! At least get an accurate feel for how much the
average plant needs by hand-watering before setting up
a drip system or whatever.
Transplant you clones into the container you plan to flower them in
& veg them until their roots systems are FULLY
established before flowering them - this will MINIMIZE
stretching...check this out for yourself, it works!
Results From a Facinating Experiment Just In !!!!
I just preformed a little experiment to see what organic nutrients
grow the tastiest,best looking ,smelling ect... The
experiment in volved a few popular strains like Shiva Skunk, Big Bud,
White Widow and skunk#1*Hash plant. The
organic components that I experimented with
were all used the same during the flowering cycle. I tested
high P bat&sea bird guano, bone meal, composted steer manure, rock
phosphate and high P fish emulsion. Each plant was
placed into a three gallon container from a one gallon pot upon forced
flowering. Every pot is mixed with commercial "
Super Soil " perlite, peat moss and oyster shell. Then the
individual special ingrediants were blended in the mix and the
plants were planted., I did three of each blend, of each varaiety. The
results varaied widely. The guano's produced very
nice sticky huge buds but there was a little lacking in the smell
dept. The best of the guanos was the Shiva Skunk. All the
guanos had a similar base taste thats kind of bland but not that bad.
The bone meal did very well. The buds were smellier
than the guano and had a slighter earthier taste. The best one was
Widow. The resin content hasn't changed much between
the same species with different mixes. Next was the rock phosphate, it
produed the biggest buds, with the fewest amount
leaves and the plants smelled the strongest yet. The Big Bud was the
best performer with rock phosphate. The Fish
Emulsion pellets preformed the worst out of all my mixes. All
varaieties looked and smelled fine but they all had a fishy
base taste.
I once dropped a dead gold fish into a pot with a flowering plant, the
buds tasted like striaght fish! The last of my mixes
was Composted Steer Manure and it turned out to be the best. The
plants were a little leafy but they had nice buds
and smelled out of this world. Every strain smelled better under
manure, the Shiva had that grape orange smell going on,
the Widow had the sweetest skunkiest smell, Big Bud reeked of mangoes,
and the SK#1*Hash plant reminded me of
pelling on orange. The best part about manure, I had yet to find out
until I cured my weed. WOW, even the best weed in
Amsterdam couldnt compare with this tasty stuff. The flavor of the
weed would explode in your mouth with every hit . The
smell of second hand smoke if so overpowering, it makes you got to
have some if your not smoking it already. Does
anybody else out there swear by manure for taste like I do? Please
feel free to respond with your opinions on what makes
weed taste great!
Wood Fiber Pots to Pluto
the peat pots are actually 4(four) inch,
and the type of pots are the ones that look kinda like
paper mache'. Some of the pots have 1/4 inch thickness to
an inch thick. I would say that the use of up to 3(three)
gallon pots, but last time I used those rectangular
strawberry baskets( 8"x5"x1 3/4" ), actually a baby
carrot
basket lined with black weed fabric laminate to hold moisture was used
in the mighty mite/mango/humboldt(male)
cross with purple skunk or shaman(female).
by the way try Home Harvest.com and you can get up to
15(fifteen) gallon size wood fiber pots. Everything I've
seen grow in these pots do very good.
Re: Wood Fiber Pots to Pluto
Oh yeah, forgot to say about the fertilizer and medium.
Basically I use 40% worm castings, 5% greensand, 30% perlite
and vermiculite mix 1% azomite aka bentonite clay the rest
is either pure sphagnum moss or a wood/peat/sphagnum mix.
For fertilizer, I like working with energy savers unlmtd or
ESU bloomjuice, brewed peru sbg and fossilized sbg and I'm
trying the hummus powders by Gardener Supply in Vermont
the booster and the seedling start. I just started using
prehistoric compost. But most of the watering I do is mostly
subirrigation, wick, or flood and evaporate. I have an
mychorizae fert mix that caused some stunting of some of the
plants which is my fault for learning to use this stuff.
I'm gonna try the straight mychorizae in the liquid form
next time, because this fungus is mainly used outdoors.
I would have to say that those days a few years ago toying
with that...Phototron piqued my miniature plant love and
that guy who sold them included mychorizae fugus cultures.
Then, at that time I had a pure strain from Belize. Awsome!
I had a full tree of about 5 or 6 inches tall and as many
as 10 heads on it and a full tree shape and hard stems and
that wood bottom. I lost the whole entire strain experimenting
with a spray of teas and guanos I brewed. I'm still crying
now as I type this. (wipe, wipe)
Not Worthy! Not Worthy! Alright..get up...get up..
Jeez! Why/where have you been lurking! You have some great info to
share! Your experiences with the mychorizae fungus
are very interesting... being an old shroom cultivator I can
relate.Now I know what kind of pots you mean - the local
nurserys toss em away, and I've recovered ones that were outdoors for
2 years and still good, though never used em.
Whats the deal with your "magic rod"? What is the
"scientific" principle behind it and does it really work? Sounds
to me
you ( like I ) prefer the organic soil route. I use a modified Cali
Super soil. I don't care for Peat Moss ( Sorry Canada!) so
I use Earthgro 1881 composted cow manure,50 lbs. as the base. I don't
know where they bag this stuff, but it is CHOCK
FULL of crumbly Mica Schist.(read trace element rich), and 25 lbs.
EGrow potting soil. Next goes in 30% Pearlite, 5lbs
Bone Meal, 5 lbs. pure Kelp, 2lbs.Sulfate Potash Magnesia, 3lbs. Blood
meal, 3 lbs. Cotton Seed Meal, 2lb. hand-ground
pumice (Lava Rock),Dolomite Lime to neutral, rainwater. This is
composted for a month, then Red Earthworms added so
the whole thing ends up being Castings! Nothing else really needed -
the NL took to it like a NFL star to steroids!They
were rootbound in a 10" pot under Flouros in a month! Tears,
tears over your lost strain. I cry over a Morrocan strain that
was Ashphalt Black; 3 tokes and you were exploring Alpha Centuri;
seeds were perfectly round. Such is life........
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