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The 3LB's Guano Guide - The Scoop on Poop
The three_little_birds manual on manure - it's the shit!
The 3LB’s Molasses Manual - A Marijuana Growers Guide To Soil Sweeteners
"Birds love the oil rich seeds of this fruitful plant and in their
ecstasies of eating have swallowed many seeds whole. Throughout the ages
Cannabis has flown here and there in the bellies of birds and then found itself
plopped down on the earth in a pile of poop, ready to go."
Bill Drake
Marijuana - The Cultivator's Handbook - 1979
Some ancient Italian in a proverb-making mood observed, "Hemp will grow
anywhere, but without manure, though it were planted in heaven itself, it will
be of no use at all." How lucky it is for Hemp to find Heaven in a pile of
birdshit. How fortunate for the birds to find themselves high. How fortunate for
the first men and women to notice how the little singing creatures became
euphoric after eating the seeds of the tall, strong smelling plant. The planet
is tight."
Bill Drake
Marijuana - The Cultivator's Handbook - 1979
Growing up on a small family farm, one of the three little bird’s childhood
memories include complaining to her father about being surrounded by the
terrible smell of wastes from the livestock they were raising.
"Sweetheart, that's not stink . . . That's the smell of money," was
Dad's reply.
She certainly understood the value of the livestock her family was raising for
profit, which was where Daddy's money came from. Early on, she also made the
connection between the farm animals and the tasty meat on their own table.
She understood another ironic meaning for her Dad's statement when one of her
first paying jobs came shoveling stock barns at a State Fair. And finally, one
day as she appreciated the fine aroma of some beautiful blooming wildflowers
growing in a recently grazed pasture, she also began to understand the role
manure plays as a fertilizer in making our soils rich and productive. Her
Father’s saying about manure smelling like money was a few simple words, but,
as was often the case with his wisdom, it held many meanings.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
The use of manure in agriculture is an age-old and time-honored tradition.
Manure has been used as a soil amendment and fertilizer since before mankind
first began recording words and symbols in writing. Scientists as prominent as
Carl Sagan have suggested that the very first cultivated agricultural crop was
likely cannabis. It’s possible that the mingling of manure and marijuana goes
all the way back to the very beginning of mankind's attempts to grow crops for a
purpose, rather than surviving by simple hunting and gathering.
Under the influence of some fine herb, it becomes simple to imagine going back
in time. Looking back, in the mind’s eye we can see a tribe of nomadic people
looking similar to modern man, but leading a primitive hunter-gatherer
existence. We can imagine the clan following available game while taking
advantage of locally available fruits and nuts. These men (and women) were not
necessarily bigger or stronger than the wild animals they competed against for
survival, but they were smarter. And during those seasonal migrations, one of
those very distant ancestors likely noticed that their favorite herb plants were
thriving especially well in areas where their nomadic tribe disposed of wastes
near their seasonal camps.
They may have realized that the very herds of animals their clan had been
following helped to distribute and nourish the plants they favored. Perhaps, as
Bill Drake suggests, it was a discovery from a pile of birdshit where it all
began. Regardless of where it started, with a little more thought, our ancestors
realized that crops could be fertilized, and even grown with a purpose. Some
speculate that this is how agriculture was born; that it all began with a
fortuitously placed pile of shit.
In the end folks can call it what they like. Whether it's a fancier name like
castings or guano, or one of the more common names like crap, poop, manure, or
dung. In the end it's all just shit! The three_little_birds want you to know,
however, that it can be very good shit. We want you to know that manures are one
of the keys to unlocking the awesome potential of organic gardening.
In the immeasurable time prior to the invention of agriculture, before man began
to till the soil, dead and rotting vegetation naturally returned to the earth as
rich and fertile humus. In traditional forms of farming, our ancestors learned
to use the components of animal dung and bedding wastes in a sustainable
fashion. Before the discovery of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, manure was
used as a resource, not a waste product. Natural humus, built up during the ages
before agriculture, was replaced by manure, rich in nitrogen and other elements
that plants depend upon. Today, that is no longer true.
From an environmental perspective, manure is a resource that is being wasted at
a terrible rate. In some agricultural areas where a large number of livestock
are concentrated and raised, manure is not a resource, but rather, it has become
an environmental hazard. Consider, for instance, that a single hog will produce
3000 pounds of manure in under a year. It’s easy to see then how the large
concentration of wastes found in corporate factory farms can rival a good-sized
city for the total volume of organic waste produced.
According to one estimate, the USA alone has something in the range of 175
million farms animals. That multitude of animals excretes over two billion tons
of waste per year. Due to mismanagement, misuse, and ignorance, very few of the
potential nutrients from these wastes are returned to the land, less than 20%
according to some estimates. Instead, this incredible mass of manure threatens
to pollute river, streams, lakes, and even the subterranean groundwater that
supplies many folk with their drinking water.
Therefore, finding proper solutions for the treatment and disposal of all that
manure, in an economically feasible fashion, is an absolute necessity of modern
agriculture. In the end, good stewardship requires sustainable farming practices
that concentrate on finding a balance on the farm. So, as long as humans raise
and consume animal livestock, as long as we keep animals such as horses for
purpose or pleasure, it is wise to properly use manure to build and sustain our
soil.
As a side note, one advanced form of gardening, vegan organics, does offer hope
for budding organic gardeners who will have nothing to do with the use of
manures and guanos. We mention this since some folk might be dismissive of the
very thought of handling animal dung, and some indoor gardeners might be
repelled by the thought of bringing it into their homes or grow areas. Perhaps
for some folk this will be enough reason to decide this particular form of
organic gardening is not for them.
We hope not because working with manures in your garden does not have to include
large messes or smells . . . it's just a question of knowing your shit!
For a simple definition, manure is the dung and urine of animals. It is made up
of undigested and partially digested food particles, as well as a cocktail of
digestive juices and bacteria. As much as 30% of the total mass of manure may be
bacteria, so it should be no surprise that dung can serve as excellent
inoculants for a compost pile. Mixing manure in your compost can provide all the
necessary bacterial populations to quickly and efficiently break down all the
other materials common to the heap.
Manures can contain the full range of major, minor, and micronutrients that our
plants need for strong health and vigor. Most manure will contain these
nutrients in forms that are readily available to plants. The organic components
of manure will continue to break down slowly over time, providing food for
plants in the longer term as well. When composted with even longer-lived rock
fertilizers such as Rock Phosphate or Greensand, manures can be used for true
long-term soil building.
In addition to providing excellent service to gardeners as a potential
fertilizer and soil builder, guanos and manures can also both be effectively
applied as teas. Manure and guano teas act as fertilizers, providing available
nutrients in forms easily assimilated by plants. They also serve as very
effective inoculants of many beneficial bacteria
The nutrient value of manures can vary significantly from species to species,
due to different digestive systems and feeding patterns. Even within a species,
the fertilizer content of dung will vary depending on factors such as diet, the
animal’s general health, as well as their age. Young animals devote much of
their energy to growth, so their manure will be poorer in nutrients than that of
mature animals. A lot full of baby pigs on starter feed will deposit wastes with
a different nutrient value than the wastes produced by a lot full of swine ready
to go to market.
An animal’s diet certainly plays a factor as well. The Rodale Book on
Composting (an excellent resource) uses the example of an animal fed only straw
and hay. The waste from that animal will be significantly different in nutrient
content when compared to a sibling fed a diet including more nutritious feed
such as wheat bran, cottonseed meal, or gluten meal.
The purpose an animal is used and bred for can even cause the nutrient value of
a manure to vary. Dairy cows serve here as an excellent example. Milk production
is somewhat taxing, even to a dairy cow. In addition to large amounts of
calcium, milk also contains high levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium,
the three primary plant nutrients. Since so many nutrients are being used to
produce milk, less actual plant fertilizer will be available in those animal
wastes for soil building.
Another factor that will change the fertilizer value of manure is relative age
and the way it has been handled. Manures left exposed to the elements will
quickly lose their nutrient value. Rain can quickly leach soluble nutrients from
manure. A thin pile of crap can lose as much as one half of its fertilizer value
in under a week. To fully capture the nutrient potential of manure, it’s
necessary to compost the shit quickly while it’s still fresh.
With the exception of guanos (which are mined fossilized waste deposits) and
castings (which are mild and well digested), it is generally advisable to
compost wastes and manures before direct use in your garden. When added directly
to soil, fresh manures can act in a similar fashion to chemical fertilizers. The
Nitrogen in fresh manures (ammonia and highly soluble nitrates) can burn
delicate plant root systems and even interfere with seed germination.
Another good reason to compost manures before use is the fact that some animal
manure can be full of weed seeds. Proper high temperature composting techniques
can kill those unwanted guests as well as many potential soil pathogens. Used
alone, animal manures may not be completely balanced fertilizers. However, once
the manures have been properly amended and composted, any imbalances can be
easily corrected and the manure itself can be broken down and digested into
nutrients that are both balanced and available for our favorite plants and
herbs.
Proper composting will actually increase nutrient value in manure. Some types of
bacteria in a compost pile will “fix” nitrogen. This preserves this
essential nutrient by preventing escape as gaseous ammonia. If the conscientious
composter prevents leaching, all of the original phosphorus and potassium can be
preserved. As an added benefit, the composting process will increase the
solubility of these nutrients.
We want to continue our discourse with a simple listing of manures that can be
used to good effect by budding gardeners. But, we would be remiss if we did not
begin by first discussing the few manures we believe are NOT suitable for use in
gardening.
Human wastes, as well as the wastes of domestic cats and dogs, are considered
totally unsuitable for use as fertilizer. DO NOT GARDEN WITH THESE WASTES! With
these sources, too large a potential exists for the spread of deadly parasites
and disease. Just say no to any suggestion for the use of those few manure
sources.
That said, there are a great variety of guanos, manures, and castings that are
safe and available for use by the enterprising horticulturalist. The list
includes but is not limited to:
• The Manures
1. Chicken Manure
2. Poultry Manures (including Duck, Pigeon & Turkey Manure)
3. Cattle Manure
4. Goat Manure
5. Horse Manure
6. Pig Manure
7. Rabbit Manure
8. Sheep Manure
• The Guanos
1. Bat Guano - (including Mexican, Jamaican, & Indonesian bat guanos)
2. Seabird Guano - (including Peruvian seabird guano)
• Miscellaneous Wastes / Manures
1. Earthworm Castings
2. Cricket Castings
3. Aquarium & Aquatic Turtle Wastewater
5. Green Manures
The Manures
Now it's time to describe the various manures and their unique attributes.
Bird Manures - are treated separately from animal manures since fowls don't
excrete urine separately like mammals do. Because of this, bird manures tend to
be "hotter". Overall they are much richer in many nutrients than
animal manures, especially nitrogen. Because of their higher nutrient content,
some growers prefer birdshit to the other animal manures.
Chicken Manure (1.1-1.4-0.6) - is the most common bird shit available for
farmers. It's high in nitrogen and can easily burn plants unless composted
first.
Feathers (often included with chicken manure) tend to further increase available
nitrogen - an added bonus. A small amount of dried chicken manure can be used as
a top-dressing or mixed in small concentrations directly into soil. Chicken
manures are probably best used after complete composting. Chicken droppings are
often composted with other manures as well as green matter, leaves, straw,
shredded corncobs, or other convenient source of organic carbons. Chicken manure
is also a common ingredient in some mushroom compost recipes. One potential
concern for the budding organic farmer, is the large amount of antibiotics fed
to domestic fowl in large production facilities. It is also suggested that some
caution should be used when handling chicken droppings, whether fresh or dried.
Dried chicken shit is very fine and is a lung irritant. Caution is also
counseled since bird (and bat guanos) can carry spores that cause human
respiratory disease, so please wear a mask when handling bird and bat guanos and
fresh foul waste.
Poultry Manures (1.1-1.4-0.6) - are often simply chicken shit mixed also with
the droppings of other domesticated birds including duck droppings, pigeon poop,
and turkey turds. They are "hotter" than most animal droppings, and in
general they can be treated like chicken shit.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Animal Manures vary by species, and also depending of how the animals are kept
and manures are collected. Urine contains a large percentage of nitrogen and
potassium. This means that animals boarded in a fashion where urine is absorbed
with their feces (by straw or other similar bedding), can produce organic
compost that is richer in nutrients.
Cattle Manure (0.6-0.2-0.5) - is considered "cold" manure since it is
moister and less concentrated than most other animal shit. It breaks down and
gives off nutrients fairly slowly. Cow shit is an especially good source of
beneficial bacteria, because of the complex bovine digestive system. Cow
digestion includes regurgitation (cows chew their "cud") and a series
of stomachs, all evolved to help cows more fully digest grasses. Since cow
manure is more fully digested, it also is less likely to become a source of weed
seeds than some other manure. Depending on your location, many sources of cattle
manure can be from dairy cows. Recent expansion in the use of bovine growth
hormones to increase milk production certainly could become a concern for
organic farmers trying to source safe cattle manures. The healthier the cow, and
the healthier the cow's diet, the more nutrients its manure will carry.
Goat Manure (0.7-0.3-0.9) - can be treated in a similar fashion to sheep dung or
horse shit. It is usually fairly dry and rich and is a "hot" manure
(therefore best composted before use).
Horse Manure (0.7-0.3-0.6) - is richer in nitrogen than cattle or swine manure,
so it is a "hot" manure. A common source of horse manure is rural
stables, where owners usually bed the beasts very well. Horse manures sourced
from stables, therefore, may also contain large amounts of other organic matter
such as wood shavings or straw with manure mixed in. Some sources of mushroom
compost contain large quantities of horse manure and bedding in their mix. So
from one standpoint, horseshit's use in herb growing is already fairly well
documented. Horseshit, because it is hot, should be composted along with other
manures and higher carbon materials, and in some cases wet down, to prevent it
from cooking too hot and fast which destroys potential plant nutrients. As is
true with all the different manures, healthier, well maintained animals will
produce more nutritious and better balanced fertilizer. Since horses are usually
well tended, this means horse manure from stables is usually a pretty good
source for those in search of shit. Unfortunately, horse crap also contains a
higher number of weed seeds than other comparable manure fertilizers.
Pig Manure (0.5-0.3-0.5) - is highly concentrated or "hot" manure. It
is less rich in nitrogen than horse or bird crap, but stronger than many of the
other animal manures. Swine crap is wetter overall than other mammal manures,
and is often stored by farmers in the form of liquid slurry, that is mostly
water. When allowed to dry, hog shit becomes a very fine dust, which can be a
lung irritant. Pig shit is less likely to have nutrients "burn off" in
the compost pile than horse manure, but is best used when mixed and composted
with other manures and/or large quantities of vegetable matter.
Rabbit Manure (2.4-1.4-0.6) - is the hottest of the animal manures. It may even
be higher in nitrogen than some poultry manures. As an added bonus it also
contains fairly high percentages of phosphates. Because of it's high nitrogen
content, rabbit crap is best used in small quantities (as a light top dressing
or lightly mixed into soil) or composted before use. An excellent fertilizer by
itself, some folks combine rabbit hutches with worm farms to create what is a
potentially very rich source of nutritious worm castings. As with other animal
manures, healthier animals fed a nutritious diet will produce a superior manure
fertilizer.
Sheep Manure (0.7-0.3-0.9) - is another hot manure similar to horse or goat
manure. It is generally high in nutrients and heats up quickly in a compost pile
because it contains little water. Sheep and goat pellets, because they are
lighter, are easier to handle than some other manures. Sheep shit contains
relatively few weed seeds but more organic matter than other animal manures. As
a side note, sheep farming is generally more destructive to the environment than
cattle farming (or many other grazers). Sheep have a "split lip"
allowing them to graze closer to the ground, so they tend to strip grass bare to
the root. This heavy grazing kills many grasses, leaving earth more prone to
destructive erosion. While it’s hardly considered environmentally friendly,
cattle grazing is less heavy on the land than sheep farming.
The Guanos
Bat Guano
"There are, in Cuba, a great number of caves providing a considerable
supply of the richest fertilizer. In these caves, where bats shelter, a
fertilizer has accumulated, a true guano, the result of a mixture of solid and
liquid excrement, the remains of the fruit that fed the animals, and their own
carcasses. All these materials, sheltered from the sun, air and rain, form a
rich mix of nitrogenous, carbonaceous and saline elements. They contain uric
acid, ammonium urate, nitrates, phosphates and calcium carbonate, alkaline
salts, etc. The huge quantity of guano amassed in some caves can be explained by
the number of beasts that have sheltered there for so many years".
Alvaro Reinoso - "Ensayos sobre el cultivo de la caña de azúcar",
("Essays on sugar-cane cultivation"), Havana - 1862
Bat and seabird guanos are some of the most wonderful, extraordinary, versatile,
naturally occurring organic fertilizers known to man. They are not considered to
be a renewable resource, and they are sometimes mined in an environmentally
destructive fashion, so environmentally conscious growers sometimes avoid
guanos.
Bat Guano - Bat guano is found as deposits in some caves that have been
inhabited by these little flying mammals. Bat crap can sometimes also be found
in smaller quantities in other places bats inhabit (old or abandoned buildings,
trees, etc.). Bat guano has many horticultural uses. Its presence can help to
guarantee efficient soil regeneration. When used as a fertilizer or tea, bat
crap fosters abundant harvests of a high quality, making it an invaluable
agricultural fertilizer for producing outstanding organic herbs, fruits, and
vegetables. Many dedicated organic farmers insist that bat guano brings out the
best flavors in their organic herbs. The bottom line is bat guano has many
excellent properties that give it great value for growing an organic product of
the highest quality. It may very well be possible to justify the boast that bat
guano is "superior to all other natural fertilizers".
Bat Guano consists primarily of excrement of bats (no surprises there - eh?) It
also contains the remains of bats that lived and died in that location over many
long years. Bat guano is usually found in caves, and bats are not the only
residents. Therefore, bat guano almost certainly contains the remains and
excrement of other critters such as insects, mice, snakes and (gasp!) even
birds. And, guano is by no means just collected excrement and animal remains, as
guano ages it can undergo a array of complex decomposition and leaching
processes.
The fertilizer quality of any particular bat guano depends on variety of
factors. These can include: the type of rock in which the guano cave formed, the
feeding habits of the bat species producing the guano, the guano’s age, and
the progress of mineralization in the guano (which undergoes an endless
transformation through chemical and biological processes). Guano can appear in a
wide range of colors including white, yellow, brown, hazel, gray, black, or red,
but color does not indicate or influence its quality.
One of the factors that can determine the fertilizer quality of bat guano is the
dietary habits of the different bat species who inhabit a cave. Some bats are
vegetarian, eating primarily fruits. Other bats are carnivorous; their diet
usually consists of insects and similar small critters. As an example, the
specific form of nitrogen in guano will depend on the feeding habits of the bats
living in the caves. Bats that feed on insects eject fragments of chitin, the
main component of insects' exoskeletons. Chitin resists decomposition, and
contributes a long lasting form of nitrogen that appears in many older guano
deposits. Obviously, chitin from digested insect remains is not likely to be
found in any quantity in the guano of fruit eating bats.
Even a cave’s location will effect the composition of guano deposits found
within. Different chemical reactions during the actual cave making process
result in different nutrient characteristics in the various guanos. Over time,
guano combines in various ways with the actual rock and minerals from the
bedrock of their region. Ultimately, minerals may be deposited throughout layers
of guano by a variety of means. Minerals that have been dissolved in water
filtering through porous rock from above can fortify guano deposits as they drip
from cave ceilings. In caves where water filters through the guano, soluble
elements will likely be washed out, so the composition of the guano changes in
other ways as well.
In addition to minerals deposited by leaching water, another factor in guano
composition is the huge amount of particulates that fall from the cave ceilings
and walls where the bats sleep and hibernate. The release of their liquid
excrement at high-pressure pounds cave walls, and the physical presence of the
bats as they constantly flit about, both combine to cause erosion. Chemical
reactions caused by the bat crap (as well as many natural cave making
processes), also work to break down cave ceilings and walls. All of these
factors result in an invisible rain of minute solid mineral particulates. All of
these mineral particulates are mixed into the copious quantities of bat crap
(and other matter) deposited on the floor. As a result, bat guanos have a wide
range natural / organic source mineral nutrients that are immediately available
for plants, called chelates.
Another large component of bat guano deposits is the “fauna” within, the
great collection of microorganisms that work as decomposers. Their main function
is to accelerate the process of breaking down organic matter in the guano. These
beneficial bacteria populations work to increase the guano’s wealth of
essential nutrients, and can provide their own benefit to gardeners as a soil
innoculant.
Once bat guano is deposited, it begins and endless process of transformation.
From fresh deposits, nitrogen is the essential element that is usually released
first. This is partially as ammonia, with its characteristic strong smell, which
is omnipresent in fresh guano. The rest of the nitrogen oxidizes and forms
nitrates that are often dissolved and leached by water. The phosphorus contained
in guano comes partly from bat excrement, but is generally from skeletal remains
(it may also come from mineral elements in the cave.) Many of the decomposition
processes work to concentrate phosphorous levels in bat guano deposits as they
age, and this provides some of guano’s greatest value to gardeners. Potassium
is often the least represented of the three essential macro-elements, due to the
solubility of its compounds, which are usually washed out of guano deposits by
natural cave conditions.
During decomposition the actual proportion of the different fertilizer
components of the guano change. As the guano breaks down, the levels of organic
matter, nitrogen, and potassium will fall. At the same time, the relative levels
of calcium, phosphates, sand, and clay levels will rise. The actual excrement
and remains of bats are the main source of the elements nitrogen, phosphorus and
potassium in guano. The organic compounds in the excrement contain sulphur,
phosphorus, and nitrogen. After decomposition and oxidation, these combine to
form sulphuric, phosphoric, and nitric acids.
Over time, those acids react with mineral elements from cave rock to form a
variety of mineral salts - including sulphates, phosphates, and nitrates.
Leaching washes out most of the soluble compounds including the nitrates,
sodium, and potassium compounds. At the same time, the insoluble phosphates and
sulphates build up in larger proportions. These include calcium phosphate, iron
phosphate, aluminium phosphate and calcium sulphate. .
As we have already said, bat guano is an ecological fertilizer, obtained
naturally from the excrement and physical remains of bats living in caves. This
product is rich in nutrients, outclassing all other existing organic
fertilizers, with a better balance of essential nutrients (N-P-K), a wealth of
micro-organisms and much higher levels of organic matter. Its chemical and
biological composition vary according to the bats' feeding habits, type of cave,
age of guano, etc.
A great variety of different agrochemical analyses have been carried out on bat
guanos through the years. All the different analysis show that the nutrient and
micro-organism content of bat guanos are high, but it varies according to the
type of guano. Because the chemical, physical and biological composition of bat
guano (and other organic fertilizers) will naturally vary, it is impossible to
set a specific single value for any nutrient. The table below is copied from
internet research and is a summary of the variety of results obtained from bat
guano analyses.
Source: Omar Páez Malagón, January 2004
Total Nitrogen(N) 1.00-6.00%
Phosphorus Oxide (P2O5) 1.50-9.00%
Potassium Oxide (K2O) 0.70-1.20%
Calcium Oxide (CaO) 3.60-12.0%
Magnesium Oxide (MgO) 0.70-2.00%
Iron (Fe) 0.70-1.50%
Copper (Cu) 0.20-0.50%
Manganese Oxide (MnO) 0.40-0.70%
Zinc (Zn) 0.40-0.65%
Sodium (Na+) 0.45-0.50%
Organic matter (OM) 30-65% pH (in H2O) 4.3-5.5
Ratio C/N 8-15/1
Humidity (Hy) 40-30%
Total humic extract 25-15.00%
Microbial flora 30 - 45x107 u.f.c./ gr
Note:
These values are not always uniform, but provide useful data for calculating
doses of nutrients or micro-organisms and analyzing the product's physical
properties for agricultural or industrial use. These indicators are for
intermediate guano, in the natural state of transition between fresh guano and
old or fossil guano. Source: Omar Páez Malagón, January 200
seabird guano-contains an equivalent percentage of plant nutrients,helps bind
soil particles,aids in nitrogen fixation and greatly enhances beneficial
bacteria. A great all around nutrient with quite a history.The most famous of
all seabird guano's was that used by the inca's,the word guano actually
originated from Quichua, language of the Inca civilization and means "the
droppings of sea birds".The guano was collected on the rainless islands and
coast of Peru.Where the atmospheric conditions insured a minimal loss of
nutrients,leaving the Legendary fertilizer of the Incas.Seabird guano can be
used as an soil amendment or as a tea at 1-2tbsp per gal.Bcause of its balanced
npk ratio,an average of 10-10-2.5,seabird guano can be used as a base when
making tea's (throught out the grow)
Green Manure
Green Manure is a crop grown for the purpose of supplying the soil with
nutrients and organic matter. It is called a “cover crop” when the green
manure is grown for the added purpose of reducing soil erosion. Green manures
are usually legumes or grasses, and they are grown with the simple intent that
they will be turned back under the soil. Cover crops and green manures are
certainly cost effective for large-scale farmers, but many backyard gardeners
have no idea how simple and effective they are to use. And, as we mentioned
earlier, they do offer a “manure” option for growers who choose vegan
organics.
Green manures improve soil in a variety of ways. Green manures add significant
amount of organic matter into the soil. Like animal manures, the decomposing of
green manures works to enhance biological activity in the soil. Green manures
can also diminish the frequency of common weeds, and when used in a crop
rotation, they can help to reduce disease and pests. When turned under, the
rotting vegetation supports beneficial bacterial populations. As those
decomposers do their work, nutrients stored by the cover crop are returned to
the soil.
Alfalfa roots regularly grow to depths of five feet or more, soybeans and clover
can reach almost as deep. Since their roots go deeper than folk would commonly
cultivate with a rototiller or plow, a green manure crop can bring subsoil
minerals up to where even shallow rooted plants can reach them. Green manures
also help to improve overall soil structure, because those deep reaching roots
leave behind minute channels deep into the soil. When these deep roots decay,
they provide organic matter that promotes long-term soil building.
Except for buckwheat (a member of the rhubarb family) and rapeseed (related to
the cabbages), all commonly used green manures are either legumes or grasses.
Rye and oats are two good examples of grass family members that are commonly
used as green manures. When we think of legumes, beans and peas are the
“classics” which come to mind, but the legume family also includes relatives
such as clover and alfalfa. Members of the legume family can be particularly
valuable as green manures, due to their ability to “fix” nitrogen from the
atmosphere.
In the legume family, a very specific type of bacteria works in league with
plant roots. These microorganisms, called nitrogen fixing bacteria, form nodules
on the plant roots where they work in a form of partnership with their host.
Functioning in concert with the plant roots, nitrogen fixing bacteria transform
atmospheric nitrogen (which plants otherwise can’t use), into ammonia, which
plant roots can easily absorb.
If one of these plants is uprooted, the small nodules become visible as white or
pinkish bumps the size of a large pinhead. The more nodules visible the better,
since more nodules equals more nitrogen fixed. To assure that enough of these
bacteria are present, commercially sold legume seeds are often treated with a
bacterial innoculant. Make sure to get the appropriate innoculant for your
specific legume crop if it’s necessary to inoculate your own soil or legume
seed stock.
Each kind of legume requires a specific species of bacteria for effective
nitrogen fixation, and each innoculant works for only a few species. It’s
usually possible to buy an innoculant mix designed for all peas, snap or dry
beans, as well as lima beans. Soybeans will require their own specific
innoculant. A totally different innoculant will be needed to serve the needs of
the vetches (as well as fava beans.) Still another nitrogen fixing bacteria will
work with all the true clovers, but sweet clovers will require yet another
innoculant.
With careful stewardship, a legume cover crop can enrich the soil with enough
nitrogen to supply most of the following years crop nitrogen needs. Commonly
used legumes for cover crops include: alfalfa; fava, mung and soy beans; a whole
variety of clovers; cowpeas and field peas; common or hairy vetch; the lupines;
and finally our favorite name among the legume cover crops - Birdsfoot trefoil.
Although the grasses and other non-legumes do not have the ability to fix
nitrogen from the atmosphere, they still provide all the other benefits of green
manures. Other non-legume crops grown for green manure include; barley,
bromegrass, buckwheat, millet, oats, rapeseed, winter rye, ryegrass, grain
sorghum, and wheat.
Seed for cover crop and green manures doesn’t need to come from fancy little
packets at the garden center. Purchase grass and legume seeds by the pound, if
you can, to save money. Farm and agricultural supply centers, what we call
“feed & seed” stores, usually offer the most economical source. If your
garden area is small, a single pound of seed may go a long way. With the smaller
seeds, a pound could be expected to last through a couple of plantings. The
larger seeds of legumes, like beans and peas, don’t store as well, so it’s
advised to purchase them fresh annually.
The use of green manures and cover crops is relatively simple, the primary
necessity being the time to grow the plants. Some preplanning is always helpful
to make sure the correct crop is selected to best meet the grower’s needs. So,
for example, if enriching soil nitrogen levels is a goal, then it’s best to
choose a cover crop from the legume family due to their ability to fix nitrogen.
Some green manure plantings tolerate poor soil quality better than others, so
some cover crops may be chosen because they tolerate particularly acidic (or
alkaline) conditions. If a grower needs to break up hardpan soil and improve
drainage, some cover crops grow very strong and deep roots. Such conditions call
for green manures like alfalfa and birdsfoot trefoil that can thrust their roots
through anything but the most dreadfully compressed soils.
As stated earlier, deep-rooted plants can also bring up essential nutrients from
the subsoil. And, some do even more; they actually accumulate nutrients,
concentrating them. Growing these green manures can produce a measurable
(although not huge) increase in soil nutrients. Some legumes, especially red
clover, can help to increase phosphorus levels. Buckwheat also increases
phosphorus, as well as helping to supplement calcium. Vetches are also
accumulator plants, working to increase levels of both calcium and sulfur.
Buckwheat and Rye are examples of crops often grown as green manures that also
function to control weeds. Winter Rye is actually a natural herbicide; it
produces chemicals that are toxic to many weed seedlings. Buckwheat works by
outgrowing its weedy competitors. The large leaves of buckwheat effectively
shade out many common annual weeds.
It’s also necessary to consider the seasonal needs of your garden when
planning a green manure planting. Some green manures are early season crops,
while others do better when planted during the heat of summer. Winter rye and
winter wheat are usually planted in the late summer or fall and then turned
under in the following spring.
Another key to getting the most from a green manure planting is to turn them
under at the proper time. Winter cover crops of rye and wheat, for instance,
should be turned under as soon as the spring soil is dry enough to work. It’s
best when turning under a winter wheat to allow at least two weeks for the green
manure to “work” in the soil before beginning any spring planting.
In order to assure good germination rates, it’s necessary to wait even longer
for winter rye manures to be ready for replanting. A three to four week wait is
suggested after turning under a winter rye crop before sowing seeds of another
crop. This is due to the same herbicidal quality that makes winter rye effective
in the control of weeds. In general with most grass cover crops, the best timing
is to turn them under before they form mature seed.
Turning under legumes at any time will enhance the organic matter in soil and
promote an active population of beneficial soil bacteria. But, to get the full
benefit of a legume plantings ability to fix nitrogen, they should be allowed to
grow a full season. Perennials like alfalfa, red clover, and birdsfoot trefoil
can produce additional soil enriching nitrogen if allowed to grow for a second
season. If allowed those two years of growth, they can be mowed multiple times,
providing a high quality source of compost or material for mulching. An alfalfa
cover planting can serve as a gardener’s own sure source of fresh materials
for the manufacture of alfalfa teas.
Miscellaneous Wastes / Manures
this space reserved for further information on Miscellaneous Wastes / Manures
1. Earthworm Castings
2. Cricket Castings
3. Aquarium Wastewater
Finding Manure
As we’ve stated, one of the best reasons to use manures in growing is the fact
that society (as a whole) has a surplus of animal shit. The disposal or
dispersal of animal wastes is a real problem for areas where large agricultural
operations produce copious excesses of waste. Even Vegans who might avoid pure
animal products like bone meal or blood meal, might do well to consider using
manures in growing, because the use of manures is beneficial to our planet's
environment.
The best advice we can give for finding good sources of shit is to look around!
We suggest you simply contact people who raise the various cows, horses, pigs or
chickens that make this fertilizer. If you are lucky, they'll probably let you
take a load home for free. Stables are usually listed in the phone book, and
state fairs and traveling circuses can also serve as great sources for free
manure. For the hopelessly urban farmer, the local zoo may also offer free crap.
As an added benefit, zoos can offer some pretty exotic shit, like crap from
critters like lions and tigers and bears, (oh my!) Some folk claim that manure
from predator species like these can help to deter garden pests, such as rabbits
and deer.
If none of these manure sources are available, or if you just prefer your shit
pre-packaged, just head off to the local nursery or home-and-garden center.
Wal-Mart, Lowes, and Home Depot are all examples of large outlets which will
carry packaged manure products, usually cow and steer crap. Often these are at
least partially composted and come labeled as "humus and manure".
Nowadays, even many grocery stores carries manure products like humus and manure
or mushroom compost. The budget conscious shopper can often wait until late in
the season when stores are "closing out" such products before winter,
to grab these items at increased discounts.
Garden centers or hydro shops are usually better sources for the more exotic
ingredients like worm castings and the various bat and bird guanos. Ingredients
for green manures can often be found in rural animal feed stores, or other
similar agricultural supply center.
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