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An
1890 Cookbook To Adapt For
Medical Marijuana Cooking Recipes
Most of these old fashion 1890 cooking recipes should
be no problem for most patients to convert them into medical marijuana cooking
recipes. With just a little experimentation you can cook the same recipes your
great grandmothers use to cook. & Medicate yourselves & your other
patient friends at the same time.
Have Fun With Them! So Warm Up The Oven
& Break Out The Canna Butter! Chris
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BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER'S
AND
SUGAR-BOILER'S ASSISTANT
Including a large variety of Modern
Recipes
FOR
BREAD -- TEA CAKES -- HARD AND FANCY
BISCUITS -- BUNS -- GINGERBREADS --
SHORTBREADS -- PASTRY -- CUSTARDS -- FRUIT
CAKES -- SMALL GOODS FOR
SMALL MASTERS -- CONFECTIONS IN SUGAR --
LOZENGES -- ICE CREAMS -- PRESERVING FRUIT -- CHOCOLATE, ETC. ETC.
WITH REMARKS ON
THE ART OF BREAD -- MAKING
AND
CHEMISTRY AS APPLIED TO BREAD --
MAKING
BY
ROBERT WELLS
PRACTICAL BAKER! CONFECTIONERY, AND
PASTRYCOOK, SCARBOROUGH
Second Edition,
with Additional Recipes.
LONDON
CROSBY LOCKWOOD AND
SON
7, STATIONERS' HALL COURT,
LUDGATE HILL
1890
[All rights
reserved.]
PREFACE.
In submitting the following
pages for public approval, the Author hopes that the work may prove acceptable
and useful to the Baking Trade as a Book of Instruction for Learners, and for
daily reference in the Shop and Bakehouse; and having exercised great care in
its compilation, he believes that in all its details it will be found a
trustworthy guide.
From his own experience in the
Baker's business, he is satisfied that a book of this kind, embodying in a handy
form the accumulated results of the work of practical men, is really wanted; and
as in the choice of Recipes he has been guided by an intimate acquaintance with
the requirements of the trade, and as every recipe here given has been tested by
actual and successful use, he trusts that the labour which he has bestowed upon
the preparation of the work may be rewarded by its wide acceptance by his
brethren in the trade.
The work being divided into
sections, as shown in the Contents, and a full Index having been added,
reference can readily be made, as occasion may arise, either to a class of
goods, or to a particular recipe.
Any suggestions for the
improvement of the work, which the experience of others may lead them to
propose, will, if communicated to the Author, be gratefully esteemed and
carefully dealt with in future editions.
SCARBOROUGH,
October, I888.
ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION.
It is very gratifying to both
Author and Publishers that this little book has been so favorably received by
the Baking Trade and the public that a second edition is required within a few
months of the first issue of the work. The opportunity has been taken to insert
some additional recipes for the whole-meal and other breads which of late have
been so frequently recommended as substitutes for the white bread in established
use, together with some remarks on the subject by Professors Jago and Graham;
and a few corrections in the text (the necessity for which escaped notice when
the work was first in the press) have also been made.
August, 1889.
CONTENTS.
BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKING,
ETC.
I. -- INTRODUCTORY
CHAPTER
Slow Process in the Art of
Bread-making Need of Technical Training Chemistry as applied to
Bread-making.
Process of
Fermentation.
Liebig on the Process of
Bread-making Professors Jago and Graham on Brown Bread
II. -- GENERAL REMARKS
ON BAKING
Baking and its several Branches
Essentials of good Bread-making German Yeast and Parisian Barm Recipe for
American Patent Yeast. Judging between good and bad Flour Liebig on the Action
of Alum in Bread Professor Vaughan on Adulteration with Alum Importance of good
Butter to the Pastrycook.
III. -- BREAD, TEA
CAKES, BUNS, ETC.
- 1. To make
Home-made Bread
- 2. Bread-malting
by the Old Method
- 3. Modern Way of
making Bread
- 4. Scotch Style
of making Bread
- 5. Home-made
Whole Meal Bread
- 6. Whole Meal
Bread for Master Bakers
- 7. Unfermented
or Diet Bread
- 13. Sally Luns,
Yorkshire, or Tea Cakes
- 23. Balloon or
Prussian Cakes
- 28. Common
German Buns (for wholesale purposes)
IV. -- GINGERBREAD,
PARKINGS, SHORTBREAD, ETC.
- 38. Scarborough
Gingerbread (for wholesale purposes)
- 41. Prepared
Treacle for Thick Gingerbread
- 43. Grantham or
White Gingerbread
- 48. Italian
Jumbles, or Brandy Snaps
- 49. Halfpenny
Gingerbread Squares
- 57.
Machine-made Biscuits
V. -- HARD BISCUITS
- 61. Abernethy
Biscuits (Dr. Abernethy's original recipe)
- 62. Abernethys
as made in London
- 63. Usual Way
of making Abernethy Biscuits
- 66. Boston
Lemon Crackers
- 72. Small
Arrowroot Biscuits
VI. -- FANCY BISCUITS,
ALMONDS, Etc.
- 84. Imperial or
Lemon Biscuits
- 90. Currant
Fruit Biscuits
- 93. Genoa and
Toulouse Biscuits, Exhibition Nuts and Marseillaise Biscuits
- 99. Crimp, or
Honeycomb Biscuits
- 107. Rock
Almonds (White)
- 109. Rock
Almonds (Brown}
- 110. Almond
Fruit Biscuits
- 113. Common
Drop Biscuits
- 115. French
Savoy Biscuits
- 117. Lord
Mayor's Biscuits
- 119. Palais
Royal Biscuits
- 121.
Scarborough Water Cakes
- 123. Almond
Sponge Biscuits.
VII. -- PASTRY,
CUSTARDS, ETC.
- 125. Butter
for Puff Paste
- 130. Paste for
a Baked Custard
- 131. Paste for
small Raised Pies
- 132. To make a
handsome Tartlet
- 133. Nelson
Cake or Eccles Cake
VIII. -- FRUIT
CAKES, BRIDE CAKES, ETC.
- 136.
Directions for mixing Cakes made with Butter
- 138. London
Way of mixing Cakes
- 139. Another
Way of mixing Cakes
- 144. Two and
Three Pound Cakes
- 146. Four and
Six Pound Cakes
- 148. Icing
Sugar for Bride Cakes, &c
- 149. Almond
Icing for Bride Cakes
- 153. Plum Cake
(as made for the best shops in Edinburgh)
- 155. Rice Cake
(Scotch Mixture)
- 156. Madeira
Cake (Scotch Mixture)
- 157. Pond Cake
or Dundee Cake
- 160. Plum Cake
at 6d. per lb. (as sold by Grocers}
- 163. Mystery,
or Cheap Plum Cake at 3d per lb
- 164. Plum Cake
at 4d per lb
IX. -- HANDY WHOLESALE
RECIPES FOR SMALL MASTERS.
- 170. Soda
Cakes or Scones
- 171. Currant
or Milk Scones
- 172. Sugar or
White Spice Biscuits
- 173. Halfpenny
Scotch Cakes
- 174. Large
Square Penny Albert Cake
- 177. Common
Halfpenny Queen Cake
- 178. Halfpenny
Lunch Cake
- 179. Polkas or
Halfpenny Sponges
SUGAR-BOILING,
ETC.
X. -- CONFECTIONS IN
SUGAR-BOlLING.
- 182. To boil
Sugar to the degree called "Pearled"
- 183. To boil
Sugar to the degree called "Blown"
- 184. To boil
Sugar to the degree called "Feathered"
- 185. To boil
Sugar to the "Ball" Degree
- 186. To boil
Sugar to the degree called "Crackled"
- 187. To boil
Sugar to the degree called "Caramelled"
- 188. To boil
Sugar by the Thermometer
- 214. Lavender,
Violet, Musk, and Millefleur Drops
- 216.
Philadelphia Caramels
- 221. To spin a
Silver Web
- 223. A Spun
Sugar Pyramid
- 224. To spin a
Gold Sugar Crocanth
- 226. A Spun
Sugar Beehive
- 227. To
ornament a Beehive
XI. --
COLORING SUGAR.
- 228. To
prepare Sugar for Colouring
XII. --
LOZENGES.
- 240.
Transparent Mint Lozenges
XIII. -- ICE
CREAMS.
- 248. Bisque or
Biscuit Glace
- 249. Crushed
Strawberry Ice Cream
XIV. -- PRESERVING
FRUITS.
XV. --
CHOCOLATE.
- 260. General
Directions for Making Chocolate
- 261. Chocolate
Harlequin Pistachios
- 262. Chocolate
Drops with Nonpareils
Measures below are approximate
only:
UK
- Metric
- 1 pound =
450 grams
- 1 quart =
1140 mls
- 1
pint =
570 mls
- 1
gill =
90 mls
- 1 ounce =
18 mls
- 1 drachm
= 3.5 mls\
THE
BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER'S
ASSISTANT.
I. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
When we reflect upon the
present conditions under which the bread-making industry is carried on in most
of the large cities and towns of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and remember
the importance of that industry to mankind, we cannot but be impressed by the
little progress that has been made in the art of bread-making. Whilst other
industries have been marked by important improvements, we find bread being made
in much the same manner as it was five hundred years ago. The mystery is how --
by accident, it would seem -- We get such well-made bread as we do. There are
very few even now who have the slightest conception of what yeast really is, and
fewer still who know how or why it makes bread light. But it will surprise me if
the trade does not undergo, in the course of the next ten years, a complete and
beneficial change.
Master bakers and confectioners
are everywhere complaining of the incompetency of their workmen; and it cannot
be denied that there is some ground for the complaint. Proper training in the
baking and confectionery trade is of great importance. A trained servant gives
satisfaction to his employer, and receives a responsive good feeling in
return.
Let us see what is meant by
"training." In its broadest and best sense, it is knowing what to do, and when
and how to do it.
Take the first condition --
What to do. This may be considered on two grounds, generally known as the
practical and the theoretical, though the latter is sometimes confounded with
the scientific, and people are led to sneer at science. Much has been said
lately in our trade journals about introducing scientific chemistry to the
journeyman baker in connection with his daily work of making bread. But how many
journeyman bakers could we find that even understand the meaning of the word
chemistry, without expecting them to understand mysteries to which years of
study have been devoted by such men as Liebig, Graham, Dumas, Darwin, Pasteur,
and Thorns of Alyth?
CHEMISTRY AS APPLIED TO
BREAD-MAKING.
It is not my intention to
depreciate the great good that would be derived from scientific chemistry if
properly applied to bread-making. But who is to study and apply it? Surely not a
man who earns from 20s. to 30s. per week, and works twelve, fourteen, and
sixteen hours a day in an overheated atmosphere. What hours of rest he has
should be used to recuperate his lost vitality. Not till scientific chemistry is
taught in our Board schools and made one of the elements of a scholar's ordinary
education, can we hope to see it used successfully with bakers in making
bread.
Chemistry, I believe, is
destined to play as important a part in the annals of the baking trade as did
the substitution of machinery for hand labour. But at the present day how many
bakers know that the decomposition of sugar produces fermentation; that
fermentation destroys sugar and produces alcohol; that maltose assists
fermentation; that starch, however obtained, has always the same
characteristics, though there are different kinds from different sources; that
dextrine is soluble in water and insoluble in alcohol; that protoplasm, the
basis of all life, consists of proteine, compounds, mineral salts, nitrogen,
&c. ? And do not the meaning and use of terms familiar in scientific
chemistry -- such as diastase, cereslin, gluten, and others -- only perplex the
ordinary journeyman baker, and make him think that the less he has to do with
science, the more easily he will get his life "rubbed through." It is impossible
for working bakers to become acquainted with these things while in the
bakehouse; and while there are in many towns such valuable institutions as free
libraries, mechanics' institutes, &c., they are not available to the
ordinary baker, as his hours are so exceptional. The baker's hours of labour,
indeed, are shorter in many places than they used to be, and he is no longer
called "the white slave." Still, the spirit of competition is so strong that a
baker has to work much harder proportionally than other working men, and his
mind is in no condition, in the little spare time he has, to study the problems
of science; and nobody can expect the baker to know, as it were by intuition,
the whys and the wherefores of chemistry. However, what he has learnt in the
practice of his art, and what the common custom of the trade has handed down to
him, he may use to more or less advantage, according as he has more or less
personal skill. In the case of fermentation, which may be described as the very
backbone of bread-making, a baker will find plenty to study and to think about,
from his first "setting the sponge" until his bread is out of the oven, without
perplexing himself over problems about which he can understand little or
nothing.
With time and money at his
disposal, however, the study of chemistry opens up a wide field to the studious
baker, and would no doubt reward him for his pains, and at the same time prove a
great gain to his trade; and I believe there are not a few earnest workers
labouring at the present time to afford that knowledge and help to the
journeyman baker which will eventually lead to an easier way of earning his
daily bread.
FERMENTATION.
The process of fermentation,
which has for its object either the manufacture of bread, or of an alcoholic
product in a more or less concentrated form, is very similar in action during
its earlier stages. It commences with the growth and multiplication of the
fermenting germs contained in the minute organisms floating in the air, the
inorganic constituents of the water, and the protoplasm (essence of life) of the
yeast; and all the changes brought about are accompanied by heat. Fermentation
is caused by the decomposition of the starch and gluten of a solution of either
potatoes, flour, or malted barley, which decomposition is accompanied by an
evolution of gas. There is also a peculiar vibration given to the various bodies
in contact, which agitates the whole. This agitation is increased by the
bursting of the starch-cells and the formation therefrom of maltose, and also by
the changing of the maltose sugar into carbonic acid gas. Substances in a state
of decomposition are capable of bringing about a change in the chemical
composition of bodies with which they are in contact. Most of the vegetable
substances used in fermentation have a constituent part -- sugar, starch, or
some other substance -- which is easily converted into a fermentable sugar by
the action of yeast, or of diluted mineral acids, or by a constituent of malted
barley, called diastase. The sugar produced by these means is resolved into
carbonic acid gas and alcohol by vinous fermentation. It will be seen,
therefore, that fermentation is started by the saccharine element in the
ferment, which is termed maltose; the process is then kept up by the gluten,
which, becoming decomposed, aids the sugar and starch in the work of providing
food for the yeast as soon as the latter is brought in contact with it. The
fermentation then takes place very rapidly, and carbonic acid gas is generated
and given off in proportion to the amount of the products contained in the
ferment, or sponge, and also to the strength and freshness of the yeast:
especially is this so with gluten, which is the great agent of fermentation,
when in a state of decomposition and when in contact with yeast.
PROCESS OF
BREAD-MAKING.
It will be useful to give here
some remarks by the great scientist, Liebig, on the best process of making
bread: --
"Many chemists are of opinion
that flour by the fermentation in the dough loses somewhat of its nutritious
constituents, from a decomposition of the gluten; and it has been proposed to
render the dough porous without fermentation by means of substances which when
brought into contact yield carbonic acid. But on a closer investigation of the
process this view appears to have little foundation.
"When flour is made into dough
with water, and allowed to stand at a gentle warmth, a change takes place in the
gluten of the dough, similar to that which occurs after the steeping of barley
in the commencement of germination in the seeds in the preparation of malt; and
in consequence of this change the starch (the greater part of it in malting; in
dough only a small percentage)is converted into sugar, a small portion of the
gluten passes into the soluble state, in which it acquires the properties of
albumen, but by this change it loses nothing whatever of its digestibility or of
its nutritive value.
"We cannot bring flour and
water together without the formation of sugar from the starch; and it is this
sugar and not the gluten of which a part enters into fermentation, and is
resolved into alcohol and carbonic acid.
"We know that malt is not
inferior in nutritive power to barley from which it is derived, although the
gluten contained in it has undergone a much more profound alteration than that
of flour in the dough, and experience has taught us that in distilleries where
spirits are made from potatoes, the plastic constituents of the potatoes, and of
the malt which is added after having gone through the entire course of the
processes of the formation and the fermentation of the sugar, have lost little
or nothing of their nutritive value. It is certain therefore, that in the making
of bread there is no loss of gluten.
"Only a small part of the
starch of the flour is consumed in the production of sugar, and the fermentative
process is not only the simplest and best but also the cheapest of all the
methods which have been recommended for rendering bread porous. Besides,
chemical preparations ought never, as a rule, to be recommended by chemists for
culinary purposes, since they hardly ever are found pure in ordinary commerce.
For example, the commercial crude muriatic acid which it is recommended to add
to the dough along with bicarbonate of soda, is always most impure, and often
contains arsenic, so that the chemist never uses it without a tedious process of
purification for his purposes, which are of far less importance than making
bread light and porous.
"To make bread cheaper it has
been proposed to add to dough potato starch or dextrine, rice, the pressed pulp
of turnips, pressed raw potatoes, or boiled potatoes; but all these additions
only diminish the nutritive value of bread. Potato starch, dextrine, or the
pressed pulp of turnips, and beet-root, when added to flour, yield a mixture the
nutritive value of which is equal to the entire potato, or lower still, but no
one can consider the change of grain or flour into a food of equal value with
potatoes or rice an improvement. The true problem is to render the potatoes or
rice similar or equal to wheat in their effects, and not vice versa It is better
under all circumstances to boil the potatoes and eat them as such, than to add
potatoes or potato starch to flour before it is made into bread, which should be
strictly prohibited by police regulation on account of the cheating to which it
would inevitably give rise."
BROWN
BREAD.
With regard to the nutritive
qualities of brown bread, Professor Jago (who I think one of our highest
authorities) says that whole meal, and flour from which the bran and germ have
not been removed, do not keep well. These bodies contain oil and nitrogenous
principles which readily decompose, producing rancidity and mustiness in
flavour. Not only do these changes occur in the flour, but they also proceed
apace in the dough. The diastastic bodies of the bran and germ attack the
starch, and more or less convert it into dextrine and maltose; they further
attack the gluten, and that remarkably elastic body which confers on wheaten
flour, alone of all the cereals, the power of forming a light, spongy,
well-risen loaf. The gluten, under the action of the bran and germ, loses its
elasticity, and becomes fragile and incapable of retaining the gas produced
during fermentation; the result is heavy, sodden, indigestible
bread.
Evidence of this is found in
the fact that while whole-meal loaves are so excessively baked as to produce a
crust two or three times the ordinary thickness, the interior is still in a damp
and sodden condition. This is the effect of bran in whole-meal.
"Not only, then, on the ground
of nutritive value may the use of a pure white loaf be urged, but such bread is
more healthily made, and will be sweet and free from acidity when whole-meal and
dark breads are sour and unwholesome. It has also been pointed out that the
nutritive constituents of the bran are so locked within it that they escape
unaltered from the human body."
Such, in brief, is Professor
Jago's opinion of whole-meal, and bread made from it. My own opinion is that
Darwin's theory of the survival of the fittest is very forcibly illustrated in
the milling of cereals, and the adoption of food most proper for the human
system. We have had brown bread and white bread before the public from time
immemorial, and what is the result ? Why, for every sack of wheat-meal bread
which is baked we have a thousand sacks of fine or white bread. And what of our
hospitals and our army and navy, with medical men at the head of them, watching
the results of this food or that food, and its effects on the human body? I
admit that brown bread does suit some constitutions; but to the majority of
people it is nauseous, frequently causing flatulency. I will just quote another
good authority -- Professor Charles Graham.
In his lecture upon ''The
Chemistry of Bread-Making," delivered before the Society of Arts in December,
1879, he said: "As regards the importance of the constituents of bran, I say
that the analyst, and the physician who makes use of the analyst as his
supporter, in bringing before us the importance of brown bread as compared with
white, and who assert that in rejecting the bran we are guilty of a serious
waste of flesh-forming and bone-forming material, should not take a mere
chemical analysis as all-sufficient to establish their point. A table showing,
from an analyst's point of view, the comparative merits of various substances
for feeding purposes, shows hay to be of high value as a food, and even oat
straw -- as, indeed, every farmer knows from experience. Still more valuable for
their heat giving, and especially for their flesh-forming, materials, are
linseed-cake, rape-cake, and decorticated cotton-cake. Now those who hold, from
mere chemical analysis, that bran is of such high value as a food material that
its omission from flour would meet with grave censure, should, from a similar
analytical standpoint, urge us to eat hay, oat-straw, linseed and cotton cakes.
Doubtless these substances are of high value as food for cattle, because the
herbivorous oxen can digest and utilise them with ease; not so with man, who
would starve in a field where a cow or a sheep would fatten. As with hay or
linseed cake, so with bran; I hold that the best mode of digesting such food
substances is first of all by the aid of our hoofed friends, to convert them
into milk or cream, or bacon, beef, or mutton."
Now these are the scientific
opinions of two of our very highest authorities. But of late I have been making
brown bread out of a blend of cereals made and milled by an enterprising firm of
millers in the North of England, and I must really say that it meets a long-felt
want, as it produces a brown loaf which is free from that nauseous taste of
which complaint is so often made with brown bread, and has a good nutty flavour
of its own.
In conclusion, let me say that
we have reason for great hope for the future of the Bread and Confectionery
trade. Many earnest minds are devoting both time and money to the development of
this important industry, and their efforts cannot fail to result in bettering
the knowledge and lightening the labour of the practical baker.
II.
GENERAL REMARKS ON BAKING.
Baking as a business or
profession has never been confined to the making of bread alone -- that is to
say, bread in everyday use. A baker we take to mean a person who bakes and
prepares any farinaceous substance intended for human food. Therefore baking not
only includes loaf-bread baking, biscuit baking, fancy-bread baking, but also
pastry-making and confectionery. It is common for all these branches to be
practised by the same person, and it is therefore fitting that they should all
be treated of in a work of this kind. This we intend doing under separate heads.
ESSENTIALS OF GOOD
BREAD-MAKING.
Two of the most essential
things in bread-baking, in order to produce a full-flavoured, showy, and sweet
loaf, are good yeast and good flour. A good oven is also necessary. An oven
which is either too hot or too cold will spoil what would otherwise be a good
batch of bread: so great care should be used in order to have the oven of the
proper heat. Pan bread, or bread baked in tins, need a greater heat than batch
bread, as pan-bread dough is of a lighter nature than batch-bread dough, and
consequently requires more heat to keep it up. I do not intend, however, going
into the merits of different ovens, as I am not competent to do so. There are so
many different kinds, and each baker, as a rule, seems to fancy what he has been
most used to. For heating purposes, cinders have taken the place of coals and
wood, and (I think) to the advantage of both master and journeyman. Cinders are
cheaper for the master and cleaner for the workman.
GERMAN YEAST AND
PARISIAN BARM.
Yeasts, or barms, are of many
varieties, but I purpose here to deal with only two kinds -- that commonly known
as German yeast, which is mostly used in England, and Parisian barm, the kind
most in use in Scotland.
A great point in working German
yeast is to know when it is in proper condition, as it is very liable to go bad
in very warm weather, or if kept in a very warm place. Care should be taken to
keep it in a place as near a temperature of 56° to 60° Fahr. as possible. Should
there be any suspicion that the yeast is not up to the mark, a simple and sure
test is to get a clean cup or tumbler, half fill it with warm water of a
temperature of 100°, put an ounce of loaf sugar in the water, and when dissolved
add one ounce of yeast. The yeast will, of course, sink to the bottom, but if it
is sound and in good condition it will rise to the top in two minutes. Should it
take much longer than that, the less you have to do with it the
better.
Parisian barm makes a nice
showy loaf, but for flavour I prefer German yeast. To make Parisian barm 1
gallon of water is put into a pan at, say, 140° Fahr.; weigh 2 lbs. of crushed
malt, put it into the water at the above temperature, cover it up for about
three hours; one hour before you are going to make your barm, that is two hours
since you put your malt to steep, put 3 gallons of water into a large pan, put
it on the fire; when it boils, add 2 oz. of good fresh hops, well boil for
twenty minutes; after which well strain the malt through a hair sieve. Put it
into the barm tub and add as much flour as can be nicely stirred in with the
barm-stick. Then put the boiling hop-water through a sieve on top of the malt
water and flour and well stir it. It should be properly scalded. Some put the
hops in a small linen bag made for the purpose and put it in the boiling water,
squeezing it against the side of the pot before taking it out. Supposing it to
be five o'clock in the afternoon, it may be put by with a couple of sacks over
it till five o'clock next morning. Then "set the barn away" (as they say in
Scotland), by adding to the above liquid half a gallon of the barn previously
made.
After the old barn is added to
the new, in a few hours a scum gathers on the top. This scum will either start
at the side of the tub and work gradually to the other side, or I have seen it
start in the middle and work itself slowly to the sides of the tub. When ready
it should have a nice clear bell top. It takes from ten to twelve hours to work
before it is ready.
By following this method one
may always have good barn. Cleanliness is very essential for barn, and care
should be taken that neither grease nor churned milk shall get near it. We need
scarcely say that experience is required in this as in other things.
AMERICAN PATENT
YEAST.
I may add the following recipe
for American patent yeast :-Take half a pound of hops and two pailfuls of water;
mix and boil them till the liquid is reduced one half; strain the decoction into
a tub, and when luke-warm add half a peck of malt. In the meantime, put the
strained-off hops again into two pailfuls of water, and boil as before till they
are reduced one half; strain the liquid while hot into a tub. (The heat will not
injuriously affect malt previously mixed with tepid water.) When the liquid has
cooled down to about blood heat, strain off the malt and add to the liquor two
quarts of patent yeast set apart from the previous making by the above process.
Five gallons of good yeast may thus be made which will be ready for use the day
after it is made. It takes about eight hours' time to manufacture, but gives
very little trouble to the
baker.
GOOD OR BAD
FLOUR.
Experience is also necessary to
judge of flour; but any one in the habit of using flour may form a pretty
accurate idea whether it is good or bad. If fine and white, it may be considered
good so far as colour is concerned; but if it be brown, it shows that it was
either made from inferior wheat, or has been coarsely dressed -- that is, that
it contains particles of bran. However, brown flour may be of a good sound
quality, and fine white flour may not.
To judge of flour, take a
portion in your hand and press it firmly between the thumb and forefinger, at
the same time rubbing it gently for the purpose of making a level surface upon
the flour; or take a watch with a smooth back and press it firmly on the flour.
By this means its colour may be ascertained by observing the pressed or smooth
surface. If the flour feels loose and lively in the hand, it is of good quality;
if it feels dead or damp, or, in other words, clammy, it is decidedly bad. Flour
ought to be a week or two old before being
used.
ALUM IN
BREAD.
A common custom to improve
flour was to add a small quantity of alum to a sack of flour -- a custom which,
it may be hoped, is entirely a thing of the past. According to Liebig, the
action of alum in the process of bread-making is to form certain insoluble
combinations which render digestion difficult, and detract largely from the
value of bread as food. Professor Vaughan, of the University of Michigan, says:
"The use of alum is an adulteration which is injurious to health. It unites with
the phosphates in the bread, rendering them insoluble, and preventing their
digestion and absorption. In this way, alum, when present, diminishes the
nutritive value of bread. While some gain may perhaps temporarily accrue to the
manufacturer through the covert perpetration of this fraud, still no good to any
one can result therefrom."
BUTTER FOR PASTRY AND
CAKES.
Butter, which so largely enters
into the pastry cook's business, is another important point for consideration.
It should be perfectly sweet, and before it is used made smooth on a marble
slab. Salt butter made from cows fed on poor pasture is the best for puff paste,
and is the most proper for ornamental work; it should be washed in water two or
three times before being used. On the other hand, for every kind of cake the
butter cannot be too rich.
In the course of this work I
likewise intend to touch on the icing of bride and other cakes.
RECIPES.
III.
BREAD, TEA CAKES, BUNS, ETC.
I. -- To
make Home-made Bread.
Put 1 stone of fine flour into
your mixing pan; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and press the sides of
the hole to prevent the liquid running through; dissolve 2 1/2 ozs. of yeast in
1 gill of water, and put it in the hole made in the flour; mix a little flour in
the liquid to make a thin batter, cover your pan over and let it rise to a nice
cauliflower top; when ready, dissolve 2 1/2 ozs. of salt in 1 gill of water, put
this into your pan, and then take sufficient water (or water and milk) to make
all into a nice dough; let it rise a little in the pan, then weigh off into your
tins, and prove and bake. The heat of the water should be between 80° and 90°
Fahr.
2. --
Bread-making by the Old Method.
To make a sack of flour into
bread the baker takes the flour and empties it into the kneading trough; it is
then carefully passed through a wire sieve, which makes it lie lighter and
reduces any lumps that may have formed in it. Next he dissolves 2 oz. of alum
(called in the trade "stuff" or "rocky ") in a little water placed over the
fire. This is poured into the seasoning tub with a pailful of warm water, but
not too hot. When this mixture has cooled to a temperature of about 84 degrees,
from 3 to 4 pints of yeast are put into it, and the whole having been strained
through the seasoning sieve, it is emptied into a hole made in the mass of flour
and mixed up with a portion of it to the consistency of thick batter. Dry flour
is then sprinkled over the top. This is called the quarter-sponge, and the
operation is known as "setting." The sponge must then be covered up with sacks,
if the weather be cold, to keep it warm. It is then left for three or four
hours, when it gradually swells and breaks through the dry flour laid upon its
surface. Another pail of water impregnated with alum and salt is now added, and
well stirred in, and the mass sprinkled with flour and covered up as before.
This is called setting the half-sponge. The whole is then well kneaded with
about two more pailfuls of water for about an hour. It is then cut into pieces
with a knife, and to prevent spreading it is pinned, or kept at one end of the
trough by means of a sprint board, in which state it is left to "prove," as the
bakers call it, for about four hours. When this process is over the dough is
again well kneaded for about half an hour. It is then removed from the trough to
the table and weighed into the quantities suitable for each loaf. The operation
of moulding, chaffing, and rolling up can be learnt only by practice.
3. --
Modern Way of making Bread.
The modern way of making bread
is as follows: Put 1 sack, or 20 stone, of flour into the trough, and, to take
it all up, sponge 12 gallons of water of the required temperature, and from 10
to 16 ozs. of yeast, according to the strength. Then dissolve 2 lbs. of salt in
the water and mix all together. In the morning, or when taken up again, add 6
gallons of water and 1 1/2 lb. of salt. If a quick or "flying" sponge is
required to be ready in an hour and a half, empty the sack of flour into the
trough. Make a sprint, add 12 gallons of water of the required heat and 2 lbs.
of yeast, and as much flour as you can stir in with the hand. Let it rise for
one hour and a half; add 6 gallons more water (at the temperature the sponge is
set, which should be about 100 degrees Fahr.), and 3 1/2 lbs. of salt. Make all
into a nice-sized dough; let it stand three-quarters of an hour, then scale off.
4. --
Scotch Style of making Bread.
The bread-making industry has
made great strides in Scotland. In Glasgow alone there are two firms which each
bake over two thousand bags of flour a week -- namely, J. and B. Stevenson and
Bilsland Brothers -- while five other firms each bake from five hundred to one
thousand bags a week in respect to the output, Scotland is a long way in advance
of either England or Ireland. I can well remember the time when oatmeal cakes
and scones were the staple food in Scotland; but such food is now notable by its
absence. This brings to mind a story I once heard of an Englishman and a
Scotchman who were arguing on the merits of their respective countries. The
Englishman said, "Man Sandy, you are all fed on oatmeal! Why, in England we only
feed our horses on oats." Sandy's reply was, "I don't na but what you say, man,
is a very true, but where wull ye get sic horses and where wull ye get sic men
?"
As I have said before, Parisian
harm is the kind most used in Scotland; in fact, nearly all the Scotch
advertisements require "men used to Parisian barm.' However, I have noticed
lately that German yeast is steadily making its way in the North. The Scotch
used generally to make their bread with what they called potato ferment. Now it
is mostly quarter or full sponges. To make 1 sack of flour into bread with a
quarter sponge take 1 gallon of water of the required temperature, add 1/2 a
gallon of Parisian barm, and sufficient flour to make it into a good stiff
dough. This is generally set between one and two o'clock, and is ready to take
about half-past four. It should be dropped when ready an inch in the quarter
boat or barrel. Empty it into the trough, add 10 gallons of water, dissolve 2
lbs. of salt, and mix all into a well-beaten sponge. Add 6 gallons of water of
the required temperature and 1 1/4 lb. of salt in the morning, or when you take
the sponge, and make all into a nice dough. The softer you can work the sponge
the clearer and showier will be the loaf.
To make 1 sack of flour with a
full sponge, take 1 to 1 1/2 gallons of barm, about 10 gallons of water of the
proper temperature with 2 lbs. of salt dissolved in it; make all into a
nice-sized sponge. When ready add 6 gallons of water of proper temperature, and
1 1/4 lb. of salt, and make it into dough.
Care should always be taken to
keep the barm clear of grease and churned milk, especially if the milk is
sour.
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